🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.